Wednesday, December 26, 2018

Letter from Russian Ambassador to the People of Cavendish

As part of honoring the 100th Anniversary of Solzhenitsyn's birth on December 11, 2018, a letter was sent to the People of Russia from the People of Cavendish. The letter, which was read at the Solzhenitsyn Conference in Moscow, reads as follows:

 

November 13, 2018

 

To the People of Russia:


For 18 of the 20 years he was exiled from Russia, Aleksandr Solzhenitsyn and his family lived with us in Cavendish, Vermont. The Solzhenitsyns were then, as they are now, good neighbors, respected and valued members of our community.

While we are sad when residents choose to leave, we were glad that Solzhenitsyn was able to return to his “motherland,” as he predicted he would at our 1977 Cavendish Town Meeting. No matter how much our countryside may have reminded him of Russia, and allowed him the time to write, it would never compensate for the country he cared so deeply about.

Solzhenitsyn’s values were a good match for our Yankee way of life-hard work and the ability to speak freely and openly, yet also respectful of others and their privacy. While he learned from us how grass-roots democracy works, we in turn were reminded of the importance of providing sanctuary to those in need and the value of having courage and strong beliefs.

Upon his departure, Solzhenitsyn left the town not only autographed copies of his books, but more importantly, a homestead, which allows his children to remain an integral and important part of our community. The lessons he instilled in his sons are shared with us as we work together to resolve the thorny issues of 21st-century life. 

Every town needs a secret, such as the one we kept: “No directions to the Solzhenitsyn’s home,” as it united us for a common good. We still do not give out directions, but we do welcome visitors from around the world.

On this the 100th birthday of Solzhenitsyn,  the people of Cavendish extend our best wishes to the people of his homeland.

On behalf of the people of Cavendish,

Margo Caulfield
Director, Cavendish Historical Society

Brendan McNamara
Cavendish Town Manager

On Christmas Eve, the Cavendish Historical Society received the following letter from Anatoly Antonov, Ambassador of the Russian Federation to the USA:

December 18, 2018

Dear Ms.  Caulfield,

Your letter to the people of Russia on the occasion of Alexander Solzhenitsyn's 100th anniversary has been conveyed to President of the Russian Federation Vladimir Putin and is highly appreciated.

On our part, we are grateful to the citizens of Cavendish for supporting the prominent writer, philosopher and patriot of his Motherland for many years that he spent in your town. Taking good care of the Solzhenitsyn family was itself a contribution to preserving and promoting the legacy of the great visionary.

Taking this opportunity, I would like to extend my warm greetings on the occasion of forthcoming Christmas and the New Year, I wish you and to all people of Cavendish sound health, happiness and prosperity.

Sincerely,

Anatoly Antonov




Tuesday, December 11, 2018

Today, December 11th, is the 100th birthday of former Cavendish resident Aleksandr Solzhenitsyn. A Soviet dissident, Nobel Prize winner for literature, and author, Solzhenitsyn spent 18 of his 20 years exiled from Russia living in Cavendish.

In honor of his birthday, the following letter was sent, on behalf of the people of Cavendish, to the people of Russia, where it will be read at the conference being held in Moscow.


November 13, 2018

 

To the People of Russia:


For 18 of the 20 years he was exiled from Russia, Aleksandr Solzhenitsyn and his family lived with us in Cavendish, Vermont. The Solzhenitsyns were then, as they are now, good neighbors, respected and valued members of our community.

While we are sad when residents choose to leave, we were glad that Solzhenitsyn was able to return to his “motherland,” as he predicted he would at our 1977 Cavendish Town Meeting. No matter how much our countryside may have reminded him of Russia, and allowed him the time to write, it would never compensate for the country he cared so deeply about.

Solzhenitsyn’s values were a good match for our Yankee way of life-hard work and the ability to speak freely and openly, yet also respectful of others and their privacy. While he learned from us how grass-roots democracy works, we in turn were reminded of the importance of providing sanctuary to those in need and the value of having courage and strong beliefs.

Upon his departure, Solzhenitsyn left the town not only autographed copies of his books, but more importantly, a homestead which allows his children to remain an integral and important part of our community. The lessons he instilled in his sons are shared with us as we work together to resolve the thorny issues of 21st-century life. 

Every town needs a secret, such as the one we kept: “No directions to the Solzhenitsyn’s home,” as it united us for a common good. We still do not give out directions, but we do welcome visitors from around the world.

On this the 100th birthday of Solzhenitsyn,  the people of Cavendish extend our best wishes to the people of his homeland.

On behalf of the people of Cavendish,

Margo Caulfield
Director, Cavendish Historical Society

Brendan McNamara
Cavendish Town Manager

Saturday, December 8, 2018

CHS Briefs December 1, 2018


If you don’t live in Cavendish, you may not be aware that we had quite the snowstorm at the end of November, where more than half the town was without power. In some places, it took almost a week for it to be restored.  Without belaboring it, a lot of things were impacted, including getting out the December edition of the Cavendish Historical Society’s “Briefs.”

We know with holidays rapidly approaching you have lots going on, so we’ll make this a “quick read.” We have included both information about our annual appeal campaign as well as the letter from the people of Cavendish to the people of Russia in honor of Solzhenitsyn’s 100th birthday.

WHAT WE’RE DOING
Carmine Guica Young Historians: As part of our annual Cavendish Town Elementary School program, where we teach the students about the people and cultures who helped to shape Cavendish, we will have our day long series of workshops and “a taste of” on Dec. 19. This year our focus is Scandinavia (Denmark, Norway and Sweden).
 
In order to facilitate discussion by students, teachers,  families and community, we have a special “A Cavendish Christmas,” short story you can read on-line. Lots of resource information is included, and the story itself is based in fact.

A special thanks to Stein van Schaik and the McEnaney’s Blueberry Fund for helping to underwrite these programs.

Watching video at Cavendish Baptist Church
Solzhenitsyn: In spite of incredibly awful weather, we went ahead with our 100th birthday for Aleksandr Solzhenitsyn on December 2. We showed his farewell address to Cavendish, followed by discussion and a potluck supper. Thanks to Svetlana Phillips, there was plenty of wonderful Russian food followed by cake (made by members of the Solzhenitsyn family) and ice cream.

Sharing wonderful food.
On Nov. 15, Margo Caulfield of CHS spoke about Solzhenitsyn’s Life in Cavendish as part of the third Thursday series of the VT Historical Society (VHS). This was our first experience with Facebook Live. You can watch the presentation at the VHS Facebook page. Note that you do not need to be a Facebook subscriber to view the video. You may have to scroll down a bit to get to the presentation. 

Letter to the Russian People: This letter will be read at the Russian conference in Moscow in honor of Solzhenitsyn’s 100th birthday on Dec. 11.

 


 

November 13, 2018

To the People of Russia:


For 18 of the 20 years he was exiled from Russia, Aleksandr Solzhenitsyn and his family lived with us in Cavendish, Vermont. The Solzhenitsyns were then, as they are now, good neighbors, respected and valued members of our community.

While we are sad when residents choose to leave, we were glad that Solzhenitsyn was able to return to his “motherland,” as he predicted he would at our 1977 Cavendish Town Meeting. No matter how much our countryside may have reminded him of Russia, and allowed him the time to write, it would never compensate for the country he cared so deeply about.

Solzhenitsyn’s values were a good match for our Yankee way of life-hard work and the ability to speak freely and openly, yet also respectful of others and their privacy. While he learned from us how grass-roots democracy works, we in turn were reminded of the importance of providing sanctuary to those in need and the value of having courage and strong beliefs.

Upon his departure, Solzhenitsyn left the town not only autographed copies of his books, but more importantly, a homestead, which allows his children to remain an integral and important part of our community. The lessons he instilled in his sons are shared with us as we work together to resolve the thorny issues of 21st-century life. 

Every town needs a secret, such as the one we kept: “No directions to the Solzhenitsyn’s home,” as it united us for a common good. We still do not give out directions, but we do welcome visitors from around the world.

On this the 100th birthday of Solzhenitsyn,  the people of Cavendish extend our best wishes to the people of his homeland.

On behalf of the people of Cavendish,

Margo Caulfield
Director, Cavendish Historical Society

Brendan McNamara
Cavendish Town Manager

ANNUAL APPEAL
November 23, 2018

Dear Friend:

What a year! We have greeted people from all over the world at the Museum, while at the same time participating in international conferences and responding to countless e-mails and calls relating to two important anniversaries- Aleksandr Solzhenitsyn’s100 birthday and 170 years since Phineas Gage’s accident.

As wonderful as all of this has been, we’re particularly pleased to let people know that the Carmine Guica Young Historians (CGYH) program is having an amazing effect. Not only does Cavendish have little to no vandalism from teens, but we’re seeing real improvement in areas of town where we’ve had students working. We’ve added new programs thanks to donors support and we are now receiving requests for program expansion to match the new formation of the Green Mountain Unified School District. This will be our goal for the coming year.

 We can’t do this without your help. You can play an integral part by
• Donating to the annual appeal campaign, specifying how you want your contribution to be used.
• Renewing your annual membership.
• Volunteering to help with our various programs, including CGYH

Wishing you a joyous holiday season, and a happy New Year.

Sincerely,
 Dan Churchill, President

Please send your tax-deductible donations to CHS, PO Box 472, Cavendish, VT 05142.

If you have questions or wish to volunteer with CHS, please call 802-226-7807, e-mail margocaulfield@icloud.com

















Thursday, December 6, 2018

Happy Holidays-A Cavendish Christmas


Happy Holidays!

As part of the Cavendish Historical Society’s (CHS) Carmine Guica Young Historians Program, on Dec. 21, CHS will spend the day at  the Cavendish Town Elementary School (CTES) teaching students through workshops and “a taste of,” how  Scandinavians (people from Sweden, Denmark and Norway) helped to shape Cavendish.

Below is A Cavendish Christmas, which is based on the mill workers that came to Cavendish. Following the story is historical information as well as directions to make some of the items described in the story.

A Cavendish Christmas is dedicated to the memory of Lillian C Spallone, a proud and active member of VASA and the mother of CTES 6th grade teacher Robin Bebo-Long.

  A CAVENDISH CHRISTMAS  by Margo Caulfield

 The falling snow swirled across the frozen Black River reminding Ingrid of childhood Christmases in Sweden. This was going to be her first Christmas away from her family, and while she was sad, there was also the promise of something new and exciting.

As she tried to catch snowflakes on her tongue, she thought how much her life had changed in just a year. On Christmas Eve last year she was explaining to her younger brothers about how the Yule Goat (a man wearing a goat mask) would soon be coming with special presents for them. She missed her brothers and their special holiday traditions, but there was now a man in her life and he had promised to go to church with her.

Though not a Lutheran Church, Ingrid liked the Cavendish Stone Church, as the locals called it. It was a Universalist Church, but the minister was kind and welcoming. Tonight there was to be a special Christmas Eve service.

In early spring, Ingrid began the long journey from the family farm outside of Stockholm to a promised job in America. Saying good-bye to her parents and five younger siblings was very hard but they all believed she had a good future across the ocean.  

Crossing the Atlantic had moments of exhilaration but more often it was tedious, tainted with terror. The storms frightened her but by far the worst part was the lack of food and water. Yes, the ships were suppose to carry seven pounds of food per passenger per week, but given how meager the rations were, it was more like seven pounds per four passengers. While she liked being on deck, breathing in the smell of the ocean and feeling the salty spray on her face, she was very relieved to step ashore in Canada.

From there it was a long journey by train. She had planned on going to work in the mills in Lowell, Ma, but another Swede she met on the train said he was going to the Spring Mill in Cavendish, Vermont that was in desperate need of workers.

She had never been bold and daring like her younger brothers and some of her friends, yet for some reason, which she never could really explain to her family, she disembarked at the Cavendish Depot and was immediately employed as a “drawing in girl.”

Fitton Mill just before the Cavendish Gorge
Life in a boarding house on the Fitton Mill property, so named after the owner, was quite different than life in Sweden. Not only did she often work six days a week, 12 hours a day, but she lived in a boarding house. The rooms were small, just big enough for a double bed and a dresser, and she shared a bed with an Irish mill worker. Since neither spoke the others language, the first few months were a bit challenging, but as they learned English they found they had much in common.

Brigid was one of ten children, who grew up on a farm in County Cork. Ingrid came from a farming community outside of Stockholm. Both had started weaving on their mothers’ looms when they were quite young. They both loved to dance and enjoyed the parties and gatherings organized by the housekeepers Mr. And Mrs. Barnett.

The boarding house was three stories high, with the Barnetts and help living on the first floor, and the men living on one floor and the women on another. Many of the female workers came seasonally from surrounding towns, and were much younger than their male counterparts, The men were almost all immigrants and generally had  “skilled” positions at the mill.

One of the things that endeared the Barnetts to the boarding house occupants was their friendly nature, and their encouragement to share the customs and traditions of their homelands. Just a few weeks earlier, on Dec. 13, Ingrid had celebrated St. Lucia’s Day.

St. Lucia feast honors the saint, who, according to legend brought food and aid to Christians hiding in the catacombs using a candle lit wreath to light her way, thereby leaving her hands free to carry as much food as possible.

Brigid had helped Ingrid create a wreath of candles for her to wear and together they baked the traditional cookies and buns to serve to the other boarders.

Ingrid had shown the women in the boarding house how to make the traditional red and white heart baskets. Given the weaving and hand skills of the women, it wasn’t long before elaborate patterns were being tried. Hearts appeared on the Christmas tree set up in the common room, as well as on mantle pieces and in many other parts of the house.

The St. Lucia evening of song, lights and goodies, served the same purpose as it did in Sweden, a bright spot at the darkest time of the year. And there was more to look forward to as the Barnetts promised the girls that the Christmas party, which would take place Christmas night, would be filled with “music, mimickry, and games.”

Ingrid could tell by the stars starting to appear that it would soon be time for dinner and then the walk to church. She needed to get back to the boarding house to complete one very important part of her Swedish Christmas traditions. She had to take care of the Tomte.

Tomte are Swedish gnome like creatures who are responsible for the protection and welfare of the home and farm. Often described as an older, little man about the size of a young child, he wears ragged clothes, usually gray or navy, and sports a bright red cap on his head. Tomte require very little of the humans they work for, only their respect and trust and a bowl of julegrøt (Christmas porridge) with butter on Christmas Eve. Ingrid’s mother had taught her that the spirits would not remain in a home where respect is lacking and thus the home would be reduced to poverty.

As a young child, Ingrid had lay in her bed on Christmas Eve and heard the Tome eating his Christmas porridge. When she rushed into the kitchen to catch a glimpse of him, the kitchen was empty but the porridge bowl was empty. 

Ever since, Ingrid made sure she made the Tomte’s porridge and left it where he could easily get it. This year, she had talked to the Barnetts about the Tomte, and while they seemed amused at her need to make the porridge, they suggested she place the bowl on the dinning room table since people were generally not in that room except for meals and he could eat undisturbed.

The night was particularly cold and their breath hung in the air as they walked down the road to the Stone Church. Jon had seemed very strange at dinner. He hardly talked and would barely look at her. Had she done something wrong?

What had started out as a day of such promise, was ending on a sad note for Ingrid. She thought of Jon as someone more than just a friend from the “old country.” Clearly she was wrong.

Before going to bed, she checked to make sure the Christmas porridge was in place for the Tomte, and then proceeded upstairs to her room, where Brigid was already sleeping.

She wanted to just cry but didn’t for fear of waking Brigid. It was with a lump in her throat and teary eyes that she finally fell asleep.

The next thing she new, the sun was streaming in her room and Brigid was shaking her. “Wake up, wake up! You’ve got to go downstairs and see what that Tomte did.”

“What are you talking about?” said Ingrid. “An empty bowl is an empty bowl.”

Brigid wasn’t going to take no for an answer regardless of how Ingrid protested, so it wasn’t long before Ingrid was dressed and heading downstairs. There on the dinning room table was the empty porridge bowl. Well it wasn’t exactly empty. Yes, the porridge was gone but in its place something glittered.

Ingrid was confused as Tomtes never left anything. In the empty bowl lay a shinning simple ring, with a note Vill du gifta dig med mig? (Will you marry me?) “A Tomte wants to marry me?” thought Ingrid for a moment. Then she realized the note was from Jon.

Out of the corner of her eye, she could see Jon standing in the doorway looking at her. She immediately turned and said, “Yes!” He told her later that he didn’t know how to ask her to marry him and it was really bothering him. When he saw her leaving the bowl of porridge he had an idea,  “I thought the Tomte could do the asking for me,” he said.

There was never a Christmas before or after, that was filled with such excitement, sadness and ultimately joy.

Jon and Ingrid were married in Cavendish in late winter. In the early summer, they boarded a train and moved to Minnesota, where they would raise a family and every Christmas, when they set out the bowl of Christmas porridge for the Totme, they would retell their engagement story.  

About this Story

Jon Larson/Lauren: While this is a work of fiction, it is based on the life of Jon Larson who came to Cavendish to work in the mills. His descendants contacted the Cavendish Historical Society the summer of 2018 looking for information.

He was part of a Swedish mill family and it appears he came to work in the Fitton Mill most likely as a skilled operator. He was only in Cavendish a short while, just long enough to meet and marry another Swedish mill worker. They left Cavendish and moved to Minnesota. Larson’s name was Americanized along the way to Lauren.

 Spring Mill, also called Fitton’s Mill, started operation in 1867. Located on the Black River near the Cavendish Gorge, it was the largest mill in the area, employing farmers and their families, along with immigrants from England, Ireland, Sweden and Norway. The Mill complex included tenement houses as well as a boarding house.

A short lived operation, the mill burned in 1875 and when two other Fitton buildings burned later, it was suspected that the mill owner, Robert Fitton, had committed arson to collect the insurance. According to the New York Times, Oct. 23, 1875, “The failure of Robert Fitton, woolen manufacturer, proprietor of the Spring Mills at Cavendish, Vt., is occasioning no little excitement in the wool trade of this city. His Boston indebtedness is quite large, the result mainly of purchases of wool in this market. The total liabilities are about $140,000.”

Cavendish Stone Church: Built in 1844, the abolitionist Rev. Warren Skinner, laid the corner stone and preached the first sermon at the Cavendish Universalist Church. The church was decommissioned in 1966 and was leased to CHS in 1971. In 2013 the church was deeded to the town of Cavendish, and leased to CHS. It is the future home of the Aleksandr Solzhenitsyn permanent exhibit and is currently being renovated.

Boarding Houses: In order to attract workers, particularly farm girls, mills would operate boarding houses that were run by housekeepers. As noted in the story, the single girls would live on one floor, single men on another, while the first floor, would include a common area, kitchen dinning room, and living quarters for the housekeepers and other help. It was in the mill owner’s best interest to run a good boarding house so farmers would trust that their daughters would be safe. According to the Cavendish registry from the 1870s, there was more than one marriage between mill workers, including one between a Norwegian “mill operator” and a local Cavendish woman.

Woven Heart Baskets: The classic red and white woven heart baskets are very popular throughout Norway, Sweden and Denmark. The origins of the heart basket are unknown but by 1860, the famous Danish writer, Hans Christian Anderson, was making them and it wasn’t long before they spread throughout Scandinavia. This is a good website for template and directions for making a woven heart.

St. Lucia’s Buns: Try the King Arthur recipe for St. Lucia Buns. 

Yule Goat: To celebrate the winter solstice, for hundreds of years, people in northern Europe had big festivals called Yule. Those traditions became part of Christmas celebrations in places like Sweden. One of those traditions was the Yule goat. In Sweden, as part of an ancient midwinter celebration called the juleoffer (“Yule sacrifice”), a man dressed in goatskins and carrying a goat-head effigy portrayed one of Thor’s goats. He was symbolically killed but returned to life exactly as the sun does at Yule. Through the years, the Yule goat became a benevolent being, and people dressed as the Christmas julbock traveled door-to-door distributing small gifts to the families they visited. Today throughout Scandinavia, the Yule goat is made of straw and adorns many Christmas trees. There is even one town in Sweden, Gavle, where a town celebrates the start of the Christmas season by putting up a giant straw statue of a goat. Then they wait—and sometimes even bet—on whether the goat will make it to Christmas, since every year someone tries to burn down the goat. In the past 50 years, the Gävle Yule goat has been destroyed 35 times! 


Wednesday, November 14, 2018

CHS Fall 2018 Newsletter

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Please note that on Nov. 15 (Thursday) at noon Margo Caulfield will be speaking in Burlington on Solzhenitsyn’s Life in Cavendish. The talk will be at University Heights South (2&3), Rm 133. However, the talk is being videoed and will be streaming at the VHS Facebook page  and you will be able to ask questions during the talk. It will then be available to watch at other times via their Facebook page.

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With Cavendish already having its first snow, it may seem a little late for the fall edition of the Cavendish Historical Society (CHS) newsletter. Technically we have until Dec. 21 when winter officially begins. However, we were holding off so we could include some excerpts from Between Two Millstone: Sketches of Exile 1974-1978 Book 1 by Aleksandr Solzhenitsyn, which was published on October 30 in English. It covers the first two years of Solzhenitsyn’s life in Cavendish and provides answers to questions about why he ended up here and how he spent his time. Copies of the book are available from Amazon.

On December 2 (Sunday) at 4 pm, CHS will be hosting a celebration of Solzhenitsyn’s 100th birthday (Dec. 11, 1918), which will include the showing the video of Solzhenitsyn’s farewell address to Cavendish in 1994. Following the screening there will be a discussion and potluck supper. CHS will be providing the ice cream and cake. This event will take place at the Cavendish Baptist Church, 2258 Main St. The snow date is December 9 (Sunday), same time and place.

WHAT ABOUT THE DOORS?
Bob Naess working on the doors

The wet fall made it very difficult for Dave Stern and Bob Naess to complete the installation of the new doors to the Museum. While they are up, they are boarded for the winter. Look forward to the big reveal Memorial Day 2019. In the mean time, here’s a sneak peak of what’s behind the wooden panels. Thank you Dave and Bob for all your hard work.

ARMISTICE DAY 100TH ANNIVERSARY

Clyde Bailey
Armistice Day is commemorated every year on November 11th to mark the end of World War I that took effect at eleven o'clock in the morning—the "eleventh hour of the eleventh day of the eleventh month in 1918. This year marks the 100th anniversary of the Armistice.

Cavendish had 57 men and one woman serve in the war. A few families had two members of their family serving but the Pollards had four sons and one daughter, Mary, who was a dietician in an Army Hospital on Ellis Island. Of those serving, four died: George Dixon, Winthrop Hoyle, Truman McNulty and Francis Wallace. Hoyle was only 16 and died of nephritis in Rhode Island, while the other three died from what was known as the “Spanish Flu.”

Killing between 50-100 million people around the world, this flu was more deadly than WWI where nine million men were killed in combat and another twenty one million wounded, many left without arms, legs, noses, and even genitals, while others suffered the remainder of their lives from mustard gas.

 Clyde Bailey, who is pictured in this article, was a WWI vet and quite well known in Cavendish. He painted the Grange Hall Curtain.

Joe Allen posing with his sign
REMEMBERING JOE ALLEN

 It is with sadness that we report the passing of Joe Allen, former owner of the Cavendish General Store and known the world over for his sign, "No restrooms, No Bare Feet, No Directions to the Solzhenitsyns’ Home!" Having had the sign stolen so many times, he made it out of wood and nailed it to the store. Joe retired in 1996 and moved to Chester, VT. Our deepest sympathies to his family and friends.


EXCERPTS FROM BETWEEN TWO MILLSTONES

Serialized between 1998 and 2003, Between Two Millstones:  has finally been published in English. While appearing in Russian, French and German in one volume, the English version is being divided into two books, the first covering Solzhenitsyn’s time in Switzerland and his move to Cavendish, VT-1974-19978. The second book projected publication date is fall 2019. Edit: Since the newsletter was published, CHS has learned that the book appeared in both French and German in two books-similar to how it is being published in English. In Russia, though it was serialized it's not slated for publication until 2019, where it will appear in one book as intended.

The title references Solzhenitsyn’s status as an irritant (the grain) between the “millstones” of the Soviet Union and the USA, the latter being alienated with his infamous 1978 Harvard address, where he denounced western materialistic culture. Before my Harvard speech, I naively believed that I had found myself in a society where one can say what one thinks, without having to flatter that society. It turns out that democracy expects to be flattered. When I called out “live not by lies!” in the Soviet Union, that was fair enough, but when I called out “live not by lies!” in the United States, I was told to go take a hike.

While many English-speaking scholars have waited for the publication of Between Two Millstones, the people of Cavendish and Vermont will now have their answer as to how Solzhenitsyn spent his time living in their town and state.

Moving to Cavendish: Over a hundred press vehicles now converged on the tiny town of Cavendish from Boston, from New York, quizzing the townspeople to get information, journalists crowding in front of our gate, scurrying along our fence—they even arranged for a helicopter to fly over our property and take pictures. .... To make things worse, our light chain-link fence had a single strand of barbed wire on top where the fence ran along the side of the road, to hook the pants of snoopers trying to climb over. This single strand of barbed wire the media now magnified into a “barbed-wire fence surrounding the entire property,” and that it was if I were willing myself up in a new prison, a “self-imposed gulag.” I did intend to sequester myself, not in a prison but in a tranquil refuge, the kind necessary for creativity in this mad, whirling world. But the press also picked up details from the locals about us having a pond, setting off the legend about my “swimming pool,” which immediately turned our supposed life within a prison into a “bourgeois lifestyle” in which the Solzhenitsyn family now intended to indulge. Ah, wretches, they were writing not about us but about themselves, revealing what mattered to them. We have been expelled from our country, our hearts are constricted, my wife’s eyes are never dry of tears, only work can save us—and that is our so-called “bourgeois lifestyle.”
Solzhenitsyn speaking at Town Mtg 1977

The American public, friendly and childishly hankering for the sensational, of course immediately deluged us with an avalanche of letters, telegrams, invitations and congratulations, wishing us well with much kindness, but it was an avalanche that would have killed a novice. I, however, had experienced such a deluge at least twice before in my life, and was no novice. Even once the deluge subsided, the flow continued invitations to speak, to greet someone, requests to write forewords, directive as to what topics I ought to speak on, whom I should defend with all due haste; requests from Slavists for additional information about this or that place in this or that book of mine; people inquiring whether I knew this or that relative of theirs in the Archipelago; requests from cancer patients concerning information on cures, where to get and how to use the Issyk-Kul root and birch mushroom. (I always replied to cancer patients immediately.)

There was also the threat of complications arising from another quarter, the locals. Putting up a fence around one’s land, even a fence that was see-through, was an unusual and provocative action. What’s more, it cut off one of the paths used by snowmobiles, which people enjoyed riding through the forests and mountains. Governor Snelling, whom I went to meet, gave me the good advice to attend the annual town meeting and talk to the locals. The meeting took place in February, at the end of our first winter in Vermont, and I went, sat with the others and then talked. Immediately the tension in the town eased and a staunch neighborliness was established.

Gradually another America began unfolding before my eyes, one that was small-town and robust, the heartland, the America I had envisioned as I was writing my speech, [his address at the 1977 Cavendish Town Meeting] and to which my speech was addressed, I now felt a glimmer of hope that I could connect with this America, warn it of what we had experienced, and perhaps even it to change direction. But how many years would that take, and how much strength?

Then there was the matter of the language. To resurrect and develop my English would have taken time, time that I was loath to spare when there were still tens of thousands of pages connected to the history of the Revolution languishing unread, when so many accounts written down by the aged witnesses of those years were still waiting-not to mention that I needed time to write. It made no sense to take time away from my Russian work, and anyway the texts of my talks would have had to be thought out and homed in Russian.

In the even landscape, the landscape here in Vermont, the woods, and even the changes in the weather, the play of sun, sky and clouds: here I cannot take them in with the same intensity and specificity as in Russia. It all seems to me as if it were in another language, as if something stands between us.

The Magic Stone
As Father and Teacher: In the meantime, our sons were growing. During the warmer half of the year, from April to October, I lived in the cottage by the pond, and early in the morning the boys would make their way in single down the steep path through the majestic sanctuary of the woods to pray with me. We knelt on a bed of pine needles by the bushes, and they repeated after me short prayers and our own special prayer that I had composed: “Grant us, O Lord, to live in health and strength, our minds bright, until the day when you will open our path home to Russia, to labor and to sacrifice ourselves so that she may recover and flourish.” A few steps behind us was a rock that looked very much like a horse, its legs tucked under, a winged horse that have been turned to stone. I told the children, and they believed me, that the horse breathes lightly at night and when Russia will rise again the spell shall be broken, the winged horse will breathe in deep and carry us on its back, through the air, across the North, all the way to Russia...(At bedtime the boys would ask me: You’ll go to the horse tonight, wont you, to check if it’s breathing?)
Several times a day one of the boys would come running down the steep path, brings a number of pages his mother typed out in an initial draft along with her editorial suggestions. Then a little while later, another son, would come to take back the results.
            I now began giving the two older boys lessons in mathematics. ....We also had a blackboard nailed to the wall of the cottage, chalk, notebooks, and tests, everything that was necessary. I would never have thought I’d ever teach mathematics again, though this was definitely going to be the last time. What a wonderful experience, how exquisite our traditional arithmetic, problems are in developing the logic of the questions...
            Immediately after the lesson we would go swimming. The pond is in some places shallow, in other places very deep, and I taught the boys swimming at my side. Water flowing from the mountain is very cold. The older boys would eagerly shout, “Papa, can we swim to the waterfall, can we?”...
            Further up the creek there was a real waterfall that was some fifty feet high, the boys in single file making their way to it and staring at it in awe. It was impressive, even for grown-ups. Two or three years later the older boys, beginning with Yermolai, would start sawing and splitting firewood with me.

Adjusting to the west It was July 1977. I was feeling smothered, bewildered: how were we to live in the West? The millstone of the KGB had never tired of crushing me, I was used to that, but now a second millstone, the millstone of the West, was descending upon me to grind me all over again (and not for the first time). How were we to live here? In every business, financial, and organizational matter in the West, I always find myself blundering, backed into a corner pulling the short straw, everything in utter confusion, so that there are moments when I simply despair; it is as if I had lost all reason, no longer knew how to act, invariably misstepped! As sharp-eyed as my actions had been in the East, so blind where they in the West. How was I to find my way through this tangle of rules and laws? (Would not a Westerner suddenly dropped into the Soviet Union be just as helpless?) ....
How humiliating and crushing is my realization that over these last years I’ve been nothing but a weakling, an ass, despite all my skill at countering the evils of Soviet society. What confidence I once had with my few kopecks and rubles! Not hundreds of thousands! Things were so different, everything fit into one little wallet. Among the ideas that life has sent me there now comes another, the ordeal of the Western financial system. And I must admit that I am struggling in the face of it; it has been sent down upon me for some reason, but I’m having a hard time bearing up. I wouldn’t care one whit if I could free my mind and soul so I could work. What is degrading is that I’m drowning in a puddle, not in stormy seas (then again, that’s how it always works. I was strong and at times even cheerful in the camps and in prison; cancer didn’t break me, I suffered painful family tribulations, endured years of fear that my clandestine work would fail, but I always lived easily in poverty, got used to it, was adapted only to privation, and now feel perturbed in the face of poverty-free affluence, where no one appreciates anything, where everyone thoughtlessly squanders and allows everything to spill. But on the other hand affluence, and my being freed for many years from having to earn a living to support a large family, have given me the opportunity to move away from the accursed cities into quiet and clean surroundings, freeing up space and time for my main task.

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